V32
Customer Assembly Instructions

Below is an overview of the main components included in a typical V-32 kit. Quantities are shown for reference. Always verify

against the packing list included with your specific kit.

Note: Radio system (transmitter/receiver), servos, battery, charger, lead shot, and slow-cure epoxy for ballasting are not included unless

purchased as part of a Full Kit or Servo Kit.

Important Safety Warnings

• Stainless steel rigging wire has extremely sharp ends. Wear eye protection and gloves. The ends can puncture skin easily.
• Cyanoacrylate (CA) glue bonds skin instantly. Keep accelerator and debonder nearby. Never use near eyes.
• Lead shot for ballast is toxic if ingested. Wash hands after handling.
• Epoxy resins can cause skin sensitization. Wear disposable gloves and work in a well-ventilated area.
• Always work on a protected surface with good lighting and ventilation.

1. Tools and Supplies You Will Need

• Sharp hobby knife (X-Acto #1) + fresh #11 blades
• Needlenose pliers (smooth jaws preferred)
• Wire cutters / side cutters
• Small hammer + center punch (for eyelets)
• Drill + bits: 1/16", 3/32", 1/8", 3/16"
• Wet/dry sandpaper (120, 220, 400, 600 grit)
• Measuring tape, small clamps, clothespins, masking tape
• Digital kitchen scale (highly recommended for ballasting)
• Long 3/32" ball-end hex wrench (DuBro 443 style) for rudder tiller

Strongly Recommended: Building Jig or Good Stand

A simple alignment jig or sturdy cradle keeps the hull, keel, and rudder perfectly aligned. This is one of the highest-leverage

things you can do for sailing performance.

1. Adhesives and Finishing Materials

• Plastic to Plastic (keel/rudder): Testors Liquid Plastic Cement or equivalent
• Wood to Wood / Wood to Plastic: Thin or Medium CA + accelerator
• Deck to Hull: 30-minute epoxy (slightly thickened) or high-quality polyurethane construction adhesive (Liquid Nails LN-950)
• Keel & Rudder ballasting: Slow-cure epoxy (WEST #105 + #206 or equivalent casting epoxy) — low exotherm

Finishing (Highly Recommended)

K&B; Super Poxy or equivalent high-gloss two-part epoxy paint system. Wet-sand plastic parts progressively (220 → 400 → 600),

then apply 2+ coats in a dust-free area. Wood spars and deck should be sealed and clear-coated.

6.1 Keel Assembly — Critical First Step

1. On the keel spar (plywood), install the #10 x 1-1/2" attach screw and two plastic shims. Bond in place with medium CA.
2. Bond the keel spar assembly to one half of the keel using Testors liquid plastic cement. Wet both plastic surfaces and

press firmly.

1. Carefully align and bond the opposite keel half. Tape securely. Apply liquid plastic cement to the inside of the joint and

rotate so it runs the full length of the seam.

1. Set aside to cure overnight. Do not install into hull yet.

Tip: The keel will later be filled with lead shot + slow epoxy to ~3.5 lbs finished weight. Do not fill yet.

6.2 Rudder Assembly

1. Insert short 1/8" brass rod into rudder shaft (if not pre-installed). File a flat for the tiller set screw.
2. Fill rudder cavity with thickened 30-minute epoxy. Stand vertical to cure. Sand top flat and smooth after cure.
3. Test-fit rudder shaft into rudder log — it must rotate freely with no binding.

6.3 Hatch Rails (2 required)

Cut from 1/16" x 1/4" and 1/2" plywood strips per kit dimensions (~7-5/8" long). Sand corners round. Bond to underside of

deck parallel to hatch opening sides using medium CA or epoxy. Avoid excess glue on visible surfaces.

1. Mark clear fore-aft centerline on inside of hull bottom and on both bulkheads.
2. Lightly sand (120 grit) inside gunnels where sheer strips attach and areas for keel trunk/rudder log.
3. Install sheer strips: Epoxy or CA the 3/16" x 1/4" balsa/basswood sheer strips to inside gunnels. Clamp with clothespins.
4. Install ribs, gussets, and transom beam. Dry-fit first. Epoxy ribs square to centerline. Add corner gussets. Wipe excess glue

immediately.

1. Once cured, sand all framing members flush and fair so deck sits flat with good contact.

Note: If using a building jig, place hull in jig now and verify alignment. Outside gunnel width at widest point should be ~7-5/8".

1. Dry-fit the deck. It should sit flat with good contact on sheer strips and framing. Trim or sand as needed.
2. Apply continuous bead of 30-minute epoxy (slightly thickened) or polyurethane construction adhesive to all sheer strips,

ribs, and framing.

1. Carefully lower deck into place. Use plenty of masking tape (top and bottom) or rubber bands to pull deck firmly onto hull all

around.

1. Wipe any squeezed-out glue immediately. Allow at least 24 hours cure before removing tape.
2. Sand deck edges flush with hull sides. Sand entire deck smooth.

Main Sail Attachment (Typical Method)

1. Cut stay wire ~37-1/4" long. Bend tight 180° loop in one end (~1/2" long).
2. Pass this end through mainsail luff hem starting at bottom. Bend opposite end similarly to capture sail.
3. Place sail against mast and mark the 7 hole positions. Notch sail luff at each mark (1/16" wide) with sharp knife or heated

soldering iron.

1. Place cotter pin over exposed wire in each notch. Position sail against mast, install uphaul Dacron loop at head, and press

cotter pins fully into pre-drilled mast holes.

Jib Sail Rigging

Screw jibstay screw-eye into jib spar at 1/16" hole. Pass forestay wire fully through jib sail luff hem from bottom. Connect jib

tack eye to jib spar screw-eye with Dacron line (treat knot with tiny drop of CA). Rig jib clew with nylon-coated wire or line and

outhaul bowsie.

Standing Rigging (Shrouds/Stays)

• Side stays (shrouds): Cut to length per kit drawing (~37-7/8" overall). Use stainless wire or Spectra line. Attach at spreader

height and to deck chainplates (cotter pins or screw-eyes).

• Forestay / jib stay: From mast (specified height) to jib tack fitting.
• Backstay: From masthead crane to transom eye. Adjustable via bowsie or turnbuckle.
• Use bowsies or turnbuckles for easy tension adjustment. Tension firm but not distorting hull or mast.

Crimping Tip: Flatten crimp sleeves fully with smooth-jaw pliers. Bend loose wire end 90° and clip flush to lock the sleeve.

Running Rigging (Sheets)

Main sheet and jib sheet run from sail clews through deck eyelets/fairleads to the sail control arm (double-ended arm ~7-1/4" long

mounted below deck on servo). Use thin braided fishing line (50 lb PowerPro or similar). Install bowsies for fine adjustment.

Typical 2-Channel Setup (Sail + Rudder)

1. Mount sail control servo (high-torque 300+ oz-in recommended, e.g. DS3235 class). Mount on servo board/tray over keel

trunk area. Double-ended sail arm (6.5–7.25" long) mounts below deck and connects to main and jib sheets.

1. Mount rudder servo (standard HS-311 / HS82MG class). Connect to tiller arm on rudder shaft via pushrod (carbon tube or

threaded rod + Kwik-Links). Use long ball-end hex wrench for tiller set screw.

1. Mount receiver opposite rudder servo or on radio board using Velcro. Route antenna(s) as needed.
2. Install 5-cell NiMH 6V battery pack (1500–2000 mAh) with Velcro. Include on/off switch (may protrude above deck —

class-legal).

1. Test all functions on the bench before closing hatch: full smooth travel of sails and rudder, no binding, proper centering.

Tip: The sail arm should provide approximately equal sheet travel for main and jib. Jib side is often 1/2" longer than main side for

proper sheeting angles.

Finishing: Wet-sand hull/deck progressively (220 → 400 → 600 → 1000+). Apply primer + 2–3 color coats + clear (Super Poxy

or automotive system). Wood spars: seal then clear-coat. Apply sail numbers (min 3" high, starboard above port) and class

insignia.

slow epoxy). Mask keel thoroughly. Alternate small batches of epoxy and lead shot, mixing thoroughly after each addition. Weigh

after each cycle. Cure 24 hrs propped in water bath if heat builds. Top off and sand flat. Install with epoxy (permanent) or

plumber's putty + wing nut (removable — recommended).

Target Weight: 6.0 – 6.5 lbs ready-to-sail (class minimum 6.0 lbs). Lighter is generally faster if stiff and well-rigged.

Registration: Register with AMYA for official hull number and legal sail numbers if racing. Contact V-32 Class Secretary via

AMYA website.

just enough for control. Jib should be slightly more open than main upwind. Watch telltales. Practice tacking/jibing smoothly. The

V-32 rewards clean, simple setup.

Congratulations! With careful assembly and proper setup you will have a fast, reliable, and beautiful V-32 that provides years of

enjoyment. Sail safe and have fun.

This manual is based on the original Victor Model Products V-32 Assembly Manual by G.V. Dornis (1996) with updates for

modern materials, current AMYA class rules, and proven building practices.